How to clean and waterproof your outdoor gear

By the Gear Steps Editorial Team · Updated May 9, 2026 · 8 min read

It feels backwards, but dirty gear is worse at keeping water out, not better. Ground-in dirt, sweat, and body oils clog the fabric and wear away the water-repellent finish, so your jacket "wets out" and your boots soak through. Regular cleaning and occasional reproofing keep outdoor gear breathing, repelling water, and lasting for years. Here's how to do it right without wrecking anything.

Why gear stops repelling water

Most rain jackets and many boots rely on a durable water repellent (DWR) finish on the outer surface. When it's working, water beads up and rolls off. Over time, abrasion and grime flatten and contaminate that finish. Water then soaks into the face fabric instead of beading, the material feels wet and cold, and breathability drops. Cleaning often revives the finish on its own; when it doesn't, you reproof.

Cleaning rain jackets and shells

The most common mistake is washing technical gear with ordinary laundry detergent or fabric softener. Both leave residues that attract water and kill the DWR.

• Close all zippers and fasteners, and empty the pockets.
• Use a technical wash — a cleaner made for waterproof/breathable fabrics — instead of regular detergent, and skip fabric softener entirely.
• Follow the care label for water temperature and cycle. A gentle warm wash is typical.
• Rinse thoroughly, running an extra rinse if needed to clear all soap.

Let the jacket dry, then flick some water on it. If it beads, you're done. If it soaks in, it's time to reproof.

Restoring water repellency (reproofing)

Reproofing products come in two forms:

• Wash-in, added in the machine, coats the whole garment evenly and is easy for all-over renewal.
• Spray-on, applied to the outside only, lets you target the outer face fabric without affecting the inner lining — often the better choice for breathable shells.

Two keys to success:

1. Clean first. Reproofing dirty gear just seals in the grime.
2. Activate with gentle heat if the product calls for it. A low tumble dry, or a warm iron on a low setting with a cloth between the iron and the fabric, bonds many DWR treatments. Always follow the care label and product instructions for temperature.

Cleaning boots

Boots take the most abuse and reward a little care.

• Knock off loose mud and brush the uppers with a soft brush. Remove the laces and insoles and clean them separately.
• Wash with plain water and a little mild soap, not harsh detergent. A dedicated boot cleaner works well on leather.
• Never dry boots with direct heat from a radiator, campfire, or hair dryer. High heat cracks leather and can loosen the glue holding soles on. Instead, stuff them loosely with newspaper and air-dry at room temperature.

Waterproofing boots

Treat boots while they're clean and slightly damp, which helps the product absorb evenly.

• Full-grain leather takes a wax or cream conditioner, which both waterproofs and keeps the leather supple. Rub it in, let it soak, and buff off the excess.
• Fabric and split-leather boots do better with a spray-on waterproofer designed for mixed materials.
• Pay extra attention to seams and the welt where the upper meets the sole — that's where water sneaks in.

Reapply whenever water stops beading on the surface, which for regularly used boots may be every few outings.

Tents, packs, and the rest

• Backpacks can usually be spot-cleaned by hand; check the label before any full wash, and empty every pocket first.
• Tents should be pitched or hung to dry completely before they go away, even if that means setting one up in the living room.
• Let everything dry completely before storage. Packing gear away even slightly damp invites mildew, which stains fabric and produces a smell that is very hard to remove.

Storage tips

Store clean, dry gear loosely in a cool, dark place. Hang jackets rather than cramming them into a stuff sack for months, and keep boots somewhere ventilated rather than sealed in a plastic bag. Down and technical fabrics in particular last far longer stored uncompressed.

The bottom line

Clean gear performs better and lasts longer. Wash shells with a technical wash and no softener, reproof when water stops beading, and treat boots with the right product for their material while avoiding direct heat. Dry everything fully before it goes into storage. A couple of hours of care each season can add years to equipment you'd otherwise be replacing.